Design wave crest height on submerged coral reefs

Abstract.  The topography of a submerged coral reef is divided into three parts, including a reef flat, a fore reef, and a deep fore reef. The water depth of the reef flat is a few to ten meters. When the wave propagates into the reef flat, most of them will be broken. This process often happens in a complicated way. The difference in wave transformation in this kind of reef is a sudden change in its topographic profile from hundreds of meters to a few meters in shallow water. In particular, there is the formation of infragravity waves (IG wave) which are generated by the interaction of wave groups and are mainly due to fluctuations in the breaking point on the reef. On the other hand, the wave crest height on the reef flat is very large compared to the wave height.
Predicting wave propagation and wave crest height is crucial in analyzing and designing structures on the submerged coral reefs, such as determining the deck elevation, avoiding flooding, etc. This paper predicts the distribution of wave crest height on the submerged coral reef in shallow water based on a physical model.